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Got a metal clay emergency? Need help with a
project? Have a question about a particular
technique or material? No problem! Just ask Dr.
Metal Clay (also known as Judi Weers). E-mail
your questions* to the Doc at:
dr_mc@metalclayartistmag.com
the Doc's answers and advice. Here are some of
the Doc's answers and advice. Here are some of
the most frequently-asked questions she has
received, followed by her professional diagnosis
and prescriptions for each one.and prescriptions
for each one.
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*Please note that your questions may be used in
the regular column of our magazine. If you don't
want your question to be published, please let us
know when you send in your question.
Also, the Doc will answer as many of your large
volume of e-mail she receives, she may not be
able to answer all of them.
The advice given by Dr. Metal Clay reflects her
personal opinions and her preferred techniques.
When in doubt, Doc recommends getting a second
opinion. She gives referrals to specialists when
needed or requested.
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Q. Can I tumble metal clay pieces that have stones?
Thanks, Ann.
A. Hi Ann, Generally, tumbling items with stones and/or glass is fine. There are some exceptions. If the stone is a softer stone like an
opal, pearl or some turquoise, you might consider the possible drawbacks. For instance, if there is a possibility of glue in the stone,
tumbling might soften the glue and ruin the stone. Some stones might be discoloured. If you’re not sure, it’s best to play it safe and
burnish by hand.
Doc
Q. How can I make a dome from silver clay?
Sincerely, Cindy
A. Usually, if a piece dries domed, it will remain that way. If you want to be sure, you can place a piece of fiber blanket underneath or
place it in something like vermiculite or cat litter for firing. Yep! You heard right—cat litter. Get the cheap stuff your cat doesn’t like,
the type without additives. If you live in snow country, put the remainder of the bag in the back of your car. It’s great for getting a car
out of a slick spot.
A fun way to create a very low-domed piece is to make your project flat using PMC3 or Art Clay 650. Then back the entire piece with
a layer of PMC Standard. This type of domed piece must be fired at 1650F for 2 hrs (because of the PMC Standard). As the firing
progresses, the PMC Standard backing will shrink more than the top layer, creating a slight dome. If you have a window in your kiln,
it's really fun to watch! Have fun.
Dr. MC
Q. What is the difference between PMC and Art Clay sheets?
Thanks in advance, Dorothy
A. Dear Dorothy, both brands of sheet silver are 99.9% fine silver. The PMC sheet is thinner so it is a bit more flexible. It comes in
squares and wide strips. Art Clay "paper type" sheets are thicker and comes in larger squares than the PMC sheets. They also have
one shiny side. This is NOT a coating to be removed!
Both brands can be used for origami, but the PMC sheet is better if you’re making very detailed pieces, such as a swan. Because it is
thicker, Art Clay sheet is better for creating bezels. Both brands' sheets can be cut with scissors and paper punches.
A word of warning: Do NOT add a lot of water or paste to these clays! Too much moisture will soften the sheet and cause it to “melt”.
Just dampen your finger and run it across the edge to attach pieces of sheet. If you are adding a punched out sheet design to a
larger piece made from lump clay, the moisture from the clay should be sufficient. Fold and cut away!
Dr. Metal Clay
Q. Help, Doc!! My pile of unfired silver scraps is growing! What should I do with it? I’m drowning in scrap clay.
Tina
A. It’s OK, Tina, help has arrived. Take all those scraps and put them in a food chopper. These can be purchased very inexpensively
if you search for them. This chopper will become part of your studio equipment, so no taking it to the kitchen for food. Promise? Chop
all the scraps up to a fine powder. Mix in some water, a little lavender oil and maybe a drop or two of glycerin to make a smooth paste.
Some people have successfully reconstituted the powder back into lump clay, but it’s too much work for me. I’d rather make paste.
Now go outside and find some really cool leaves with deep veins, maybe some pods, even a dead bug or two. Cover them with layers
of paste. If you’re looking for detailed texture, the first couple of paste layers should be thin. Then, thicken your paste and just blob it
on. Let each layer dry completely before adding the next. If a dried layer starts lifting when you add fresh paste, use a dabbing
motion rather than brushing it on.
Get a sense of the weight after every few layers. When you think the coating of paste is thick enough, add one or two more layers
before firing it. In the case of bugs, you’ll want to maintain their shape, and they will be very delicate. Add just 3 or 4 layers of paste
before the initial firing. After your piece is fired, add some more silver inside, then dry and fire again.
Open pods can have glass or resin added to the opening after the silver is fired.
Another thing you can do with your scraps is to place some smaller scrap pieces on a firing board and torch them until they melt. It’s a
blast to watch a flat piece of silver turn into a ball. You can make large balls, medium balls and even tiny balls. (Chill, Gordon. I’m not
gonna say it!) These can be added as texture and embellishments to any project that needs something a little extra.
Most important, keep your scraps in a sealed container! There is no need to add inclusions from the kitty or dog lounging beside you,
or the dust in the air. Enjoy those scraps!
Doc MC
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